Morag Lyall’s little guide to whites

By Morag Lyall • Jun 27th, 2008 • Category: Blogs, Morag Lyall

As summer is occasionally here, let me head straight to the white wines in my cut out (or print) guide.

I tend to take the general assumption when choosing a wine that Australians are less restricted by traditions of wine making and therefore put a lot more spice and flavours into their wines. Australian or Chilean wines (the ‘New World’) are my favourite, but a lot of people still like the tradition of ‘Old World’.

Sauvignon Blanc

A very fresh taste. Usually quite dry and makes the mouth water. Can taste of tropical fruits.

A French sauvignon can often be described as smelling of grass and taste quite sharp. An Australian sauvignon is less traditional so will smell more aromatic and taste fruitier. It will have more flavour, so be careful when ordering food.

Be aware that many South African sauvignon blancs are slightly sparkling and I find they taste corked in the first couple of mouthfuls.

My advice is go for a Chilean sauvignon blanc. They’ve got really good at making them, they aren’t afraid to move away from traditional sauvignon methods and their hot weather is a perfect growing ground for the grape.

Viognier

Viogniers are quite opulent and aromatic. This grape has flavours of apricot, peach and even a bit of spice.

Imagine a French viognier to taste quite flowery, while an Australian viognier is heavier, stronger and spicier.

Chardonnay

Originating from the Burgundy, Champagne and Chablis regions in France, the chardonnay grape is now a widely-grown grape around the world. Chardonnays can be blended with other grapes and is often used to make sparkling wine. The grape is very flavourful and often quite a high percentage, particularly expensive Burgundys. Burgundy chardonnays can have tastes of hazelnut while a Meursault chardonnay is more buttery and oaky. All chardonnays have a smoky and slightly burnt taste to them.

Chablis is made from chardonnay grapes and is your typical ‘dry white wine’. This means that it is quite acidy, like biting into an apple.

Californian chardonnays are known to be more buttery and oaky. The creamy taste of these wines makes them slightly less food-friendly, so enjoy over an episode of Friends rather than a big meal.

Pinot Grigio

Pinot grigio has become the most popular dry white in recent years. It is a pretty reliable pub-drinking wine. Its grapes look almost black, but it is considered a reliable grape, producing all over the world.

Many pinot grigios are pretty awful, and this will be reflected in the price. But you can go all out and get an Alsace, one of the best, for a ridiculously expensive price. The more expensive, the more full-bodied and flavourful.

Australian pinto grigios are a good one to try, they have a nice citrus acidity to them.

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Morag Lyall is is our production editor. She's Scottish (a bit), a young Tory and a titan of a woman. Mess with Morag and you'll be laughing from the other side of your double page spread. Favourite place in London: Bow Road tube station. It plays classical music, she says.
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